1964 Ford F-100


I was thinking that I'd use this old truck for pulling a similar year trailer for nostalgic camping.   So, I put some into it ensuring it would be ready to go out back roads.  Then ...  Well... I got a old fiberglass van type RV instead.  Now, I don't really have a "justifiable use" for this truck other than it's a neat old rig and it's ready to roll.

On the NADA site in Nov 02 it said value $6650-$7700 for Average Retail

On the NADA site in Mar 03 it said value $6650-$8925 for Average Retail

Newest parts:

Clutch (complete assembly), Holley 750 Carburetor 44779S, Tires (Bridgestone Duelers), King pins, Front brake cylinders and pads, Dual 2 1/4" exhaust (complete), Big K&N 14x6" with dust bonnet, All 4 motor mounts, Starter, Seat Belts, The F100 side badge inserts, Locking gas cap, Service manual on CD, Owners Guide (for glove box)

I'd let it go for $5000, otherwise I'll use it for fun.  There's not many like this one still in use today.  It maybe worth more, I don't know. 

It runs out really well and is a pleasure to drive.  A nice comfortable cruising speed of just over 65.   Steering and brakes are tight.   All of the hoses are fairly new.   The new exhaust has a mellow sound, but can still be heard inside the house.  I'm getting about 10.5 mpg on the average with about 90% being short in town mile or two jaunts.  I've yet to run more than half of any one tank out in highway driving and I've gotten as high as 12mpg on 91 or 92oct fuel.  

One thing is for sure, about every time I take it out and about, someone will go out of there way to say "nice truck".  It has more power than needed for driving around empty.  Have never put a load on it other than a couple of steep local passes and I'm guessing it would easily pull way more than it could handle!  When taking off the tires tend to spin if your in a bit of a hurry especially when slick.

Bed & Rear: 

The bed boards are new but were put in for use and not for show.  Strip on right has not been painted black like the others.  It does have a black bed cover.  I've had a couple snaps pop apart but I replaced them.  The taillights are chrome housed with chrome Ford script and blue dots on/in the lens.


The grill catches your eye from a block away!

The cream white shows up in the second pic.

Some more outside shots.

If you look really close, there is a slight dent just below the door handle.  The light just happened to be right for seeing it here.

The dirt from not being washed recently was supposed to show up on the hood but shows up better on the windshield in the left pic.

Right side looking in: No rips or tears in here. 

Seat has a slight drivers butt wallow.   Dash mat is just starting to show some fade.  One spot of repair that is less than perfect by stereo panel.  Heater box is powder coated with chrome Ford script on it.  The fender wall duct has duct tape around it to seal the joint.  The rear speakers are not hooked up and their wires are hanging down from the back of the stereo.  It should be a simple wire it up connection ... just haven't paid it much mind as I usually don't listen to music when driving. 

The black carpet is new but not of show quality material and fitting.

Drivers side Shinny dash!

Everything but the cigarette lighter works.



New dual exhaust all the way back to chrome tips including cross over pipe.  The blue still shows on the inside white lettering of the new tires.  The original yellow can be seen in the body panel undercarriage areas.

My Casting Numbers & such ->

Rear End: Ford 9" (10 bolt, 5L29, DIFF 39, 3.00 gears)
Trans: T-98 (Right - 98   1R   1, Left - T98-1R, W-GorQ D1Y, N-1)  It has a 1-3/8" shaft.
Bell Housing: Speed Gem 
Block: C1AE8015C - 61-62 390/4.05
Heads: 68 std. 360,390,428 w/AIR CCV 68.1-71.1
Intake: C18E9425B (1C3)
Ignition: CraneCams XR700

Here's some photo choping fun:

chop the cab a bit

What would that look like from the rear?

Lower it a bit too

How about the original color?

The tires had to go!  They were 215/75R15 2ply Montgomery Wards low grade tire and they just looked silly.  I replaced them with 265/75R15 Bridgestone Dueler A/T tires because the deal was good.  They gave me $30/tire trade!  

This was a 3 inch increase in diameter (27.7 to 30.7) so my speedo is even more wrong but the other way, than before.

There was an exhaust leak ... more like everything on the drivers side.  The pipe system from the manifold back were new and very interesting ... (banded & clamped - nothing welded).

I took it down to Boise Muffler and they replaced the "interesting" with 2.25" tube.  I was looking for quiet/mellow sound so the 3ft. bomb tubes got replaced too.  The sound is much better but still barks out and rumbles on acceleration.  The new system has a cross over pipe and turbo type mufflers.  Everything is welded including the new chrome tips and new frame to pipe mounting hardware.

Now... it was clear that an exhaust leak was coming from the head to manifold.  I picked up a gasket and pulled off the manifold ...  fixed the leak problem on the drivers side.  

Seller paid for a New clutch at Clutch World.   The clutch was hard to find due to the large shaft size, but discovered a local guy that just happened to have a whole new assembly in his barn. 

Note: Boise Muffler's cross over tube was placed perfectly as the tranny cleared it just fine.

I gave up on trying to make the 2 barrel on the 4to2 adaptor plate work right and put a Holly 750 (44779S) on.  The local hot rod shop had a remanufactured one so that's what I got (wanted a 650).  Wow it made a big difference!  Now I'm curious what, if any, effect to MPG it will have?  I'm guessing (rough calculation) that I got 10-11mpg on my last tank.

Well... I got 12mpg with the carb change in the middle and several highway miles... and my last tank was 8.5mpg strictly in town and lot's of idle time.  Everything adjusted and back to 12mpg mostly in town... I can live with that!  It should go up a-bit for highway travel.

Air Cleaner
It already had a 14 inch round air filter plate with a chrome top, so I ordered a 6" K&N with the cloth dust booty to replace the old, crispy one it came with.  May help a bit with MPG, and should give the intake plenty of fresh air.

A week or so later after a local order from the Hot Rod Shop...  I put the air filter in place and it was 1/4" too tall!  I had measured and sized the threaded center shaft for the increased height, but didn't  account for the hood cross member that caught about an inch on the back.  Ok, so I went down and picked up another assembly that had a dropped mount around the carb.  Ooops, dropped too much and things don't clear very well!  So... then I tried a couple spacers and finally ended up with the expensive Holly spacer as it was the only one that cleared everything.  I used the new chrome top as it was dished up rather than down.  I liked the look of the down dish but figured if water ever got up there there ... whatever!

Fan shroud
A chrome strip was on the floorboard when I bought the truck.  Thought it went around the air cleaner at first but it had the wrong bend.  Hey, it must be a fan shroud and these plastic things in a bag just poked through the radiator for mounting.

Factory Shop Manual on CD - Live and learn, Print is better than the poorly scanned page images of this Detroit Iron Information Systems CD that can only be viewed with their hokey software.  So, I printed the pertinent sections and made my own book.

Owners manual is new. 

The Ford fender badge was missing the F100 and had chrome inserts that the previous-previous owner had made... they were kind of nice, but I ordered thecorrect inserts and put them in.

King Pins
The left side king pin has a tiny bit of slop.  Got a rebuild kit, the good one with brass bushings.  I was going to do this ... and just before the pounding started, decided to take it down to "Fairview Automotive Engineering" (John a 7x18 one man operation) and have him do it.  Well, it sat at his shop for 2 weeks and he didn't touch it...  So, I got my keys and drove away.  . 

Ok this is now done... by, John's Auto Care Center.

Front Left front cylinder showed signs of starting to seep a bit, so ... put new ones in.  The shoes were just fine but replaced them also.  New cylinders, shoes, HW kit, seal and repack bearings.  The cylinders were spendy, like $80 something a pop! 

Motor Mounts
Found a motor mount that was loose and trashed.  Put new ones in.

Dust Cover
Was missing dust plate for Bell-housing, looks to be the type for AT rather than the Std tranny & bell setups I've found.  Every cover was missing in salvage yards I've checked so far.  Hey, I found one at the 5th yard (Jalopy Jungle). Finally, a flywheel/bell-housing dust cover to keep stuff out of the bell area and protect the new clutch.

Rear Motor Mounts
Come to find out ... the rear motor mounts that support the bell housing have a steel sleeve that keeps the rubber of the rear mounts from compressing.  Saw this when putting in the front mounts.  Well, these too had to go.  I replaced these with a mount configuration similar to the fronts.

Reading Casting Numbers

Casting numbers tell when a part was designed and what car it was designed for. This does not mean that the part was not used on other cars. For example, casting number C8OE-9430-D is an exhaust manifold for a 428 CJ Fairlane; however, it was also used on 428 CJ Mustangs.


The breakdown of casting number C8OE-9430-D is easy using the charts below:

C = Decade of 1960
8 = Year of the decade (8th year of 1960), 1968
O = Fairlane Car line / Manufacture code
E = Engine engineering department
9430 = Basic number for an exhaust manifold
N = Design change

Casting Number Breakdown Charts

Decade of Manufacture:
A = 1940
B = 1950
C = 1960
D = 1970
E = 1980

Year of Decade
The year of the decade is determined by adding a number (0-9) to the letter of the decade. Example: C6 would be 1966, D0 would be 1970, D1 would be 1971.

Car Line/ Manufacture Codes
A = Galaxie
D = Falcon (60-69)
F = Outside USA, Trans Am racing
G = Comet / Montego
J = Industrial
M = Mercury
O = Fairlane / Torino
P = Autolite / Motorcraft
R = Rotunda
S = Thunderbird
T = Truck
V = Lincoln (61 - current)
Z = Mustang

Engineering Departments
A = Chassis
B = Body
E = Engine
F = Engine accessories
J = Autolite (67-72)
P = Automatic transmission
R = Manual transmission
W = Axle
X = Muscle parts program
Y = Lincoln / Mercury service parts
Z = Ford service parts

Basic Number
These identify the part, such as 6090 being a cylinder head or 9430 being an exhaust manifold.

Design Change
A Basic part is made to fit many applications. Example:
DOZZ-7528-C is a clutch bar for a 390/428
DOZZ-7528-D is a clutch bar for a 351 W
DOZZ-7529-E is a clutch bar for a 302 Boss

Reading Casting Dates

Casting dates:
Casting dates show the exact day, month and year a certain part was made or cast. The typical casting date looks like "6M08".

Breaking down a casting date:
6 = The year of the decade. "6" for 1976.
M = The letter of the month. (December)
08 = The day of the month. (8th)

How do Casting Numbers Appear?

Most casting numbers are stamped into the part itself, other have the number molded on the part. Some casting numbers can be ink stamped while others are printed on paper, which is then wraped around the part.

FE Casting Numbers

Blocks (C1AE8015C)

390 cid

406 cid

427 cid

428 cid


390 cid [3.78" stroke]
2U C3AE-D C4TE-6303-B
C2AE-B C4AE-B C6TE-6303-C
C2AE-D C4AE-C C6TE-6303-E
C3AE-6303-E C4AE-A  

406 cid [3.78" stroke]
C3AE-6303-E C4TZ-B

410 cid [3.98" stroke]

427 cid [3.78" stroke]
C3AE-6303-E C4TZ-B

428 cid [3.98" stroke]

Ford 9 inch 

Pin the wheel and count the shaft rotation shows 3.00 gears.

If I ever get into the rear end I'm thinking about a .25 numerically lower ring & pinion ratio and a locker. This would drop cruising speed RPM's by about 100 to 150. I think that'll make "nicely drivable" up from 67mph to about 73.

My guess is that the gears were recently put in with the motor and all is probably fine with the 3rd member.  There is zero heat felt on the axle housing after cruising for a hour or so.  This would indicate to me that the internals are probably fine.

Rebuild info
Tire size: 265/75R15 or 30.7"
Current gear ratio: 3.00
New gear ratio: 2.73, 2.75, 2.83 (based on availability)
Axle spline count: 28, 31, or 35? - Guessing 31 spline because of the 5000lb G.V.W. and a 61.25" flange to flange measurement
Drop out: 10 bolts
Numbers: 5L29, DIFF 39 - no tag, was originally 3.89 based on the door tag number 12
Trans type: T-98
Pinion: enters below axle centerline Standard Rotation
Front Axle: Solid - straight

Item Price Qty Total from classicautoparts:
2.75 Ring & Pinion Axle Kit everything ? $425.00 kit $425.00
Axle bearings & seals $40.00 2 $80.00
Locker (gear LS?) $400-500  

Ford 9" Strength - 4 styles you can find in a junkyard that range from light duty to extreme duty. The larger 31 spline axle versions are stronger than the 28 spline version of the same unit.

The 67-73 Mustang type is considered light duty (both axles).
The 57-68 early passenger car and half-ton pickup rear end is considered medium duty (both axles).
The 70-79 Ranchero / Torino are considered a high performance unit (both 28 and 31 spline axles).
The 69-77 Galaxie / Lincoln and 73-86 half-ton pickup version the strongest (both axles).

Ford 9" Width: all measurements are from axle flange to axle flange

1957-59 Ford - 57 1/4"
60-64 Ford 61 1/4"
57-59 Ranchero and SW = 57 1/4"
1964-71 Full sized cars - 61"
1979-81 Lincoln Versailles - 58 1/2"
1972-79 Ford intermediate & Full Size - 63"
70-79 Ranchero / Torino = 63"
73-86 Pickup = 65"
57-72 half-ton pickup = 61 1/4"
73-86 half-ton pickup = 65 1/4"
66-77 Bronco = 58"
1977-86 Ford F-150, Bronco - 65 1/4"
1977-86 Ford E-150 - 69 1/4"
77-81 Granada / Versailles = 58 1/2"
67-70 Mustang / Cougar / Fairlane / Comet = 59 1/4"
70-73 Mustang family = 61 1/4"

Transmission T-98

The tranny is ok but shifts are not quick.

T-98 is stamped on the trany case.  So ... it's the original tranny, or not, it may have been retrieved with the "said" 390 motor or randomly matched up.  My vin plate has an F for manual 4 speed (T-98) so this leads me to believe it is original.

Used by: Ford, Jeep, and IH in a number of vehicles and styles that may or may not be interchangeable due to bolt patterns, input-shaft lengths, and rear face designs. The T-18 and early-model (1953-66) T-98 are basically the same except in the way the main shaft is supported.  This is a fairly compact transmission with a cast-iron case. Its extremely strong design makes it very popular, and it's easily adapted to a variety of applications. 

The T-98 is the predecessor to the T-18 and it is as strong as the T-18, but it is said to have a weaker lubrication system.  Therefore the T-98 is a bit more prone to wear since bearings and lubrication are not as good as the T-18.  Internals from a T-18 can be put in a T-98 case. The left side of the case is stamped T-18 or T-98. A PTO access plate can be found on the left-hand side.

The T-98 is the oldest of Borg-Warner's large production, granny unsynchronized first, heavy duty, four speeds.  The input bearing retainer size (4.85") and often the input shaft length is compatible with the bell housing used with the T-150, T-176, T-5, T-4, SR-4, and of course Jeep T-18.

On the Jeep version, the input shaft length varies depending on the application, but the shaft can be cut and resplined or an input shaft of the appropriate length can be installed. The Ford version of the T-98 uses a larger diameter input shaft, so a clutch disk that matches the larger input shaft must be used.  A 2WD Ford T-18 would may be easier to find and install.


Type: 4-spd. manual
Length (in.): 11.87 
Weight (lb.): 150 (approx.)
Ratios: Narrow        Wide
        4.03:1 (1st)  6.40
        2.42:1 (2nd)  3.09
        1.41:1 (3rd)  1.69
        1.00:1 (4th)  1.00
           ??   (R)   7.44

T-18 Identification

The case and top cover are both cast iron, with the top cover being retained by six bolts. The T18 & T19 has a 1-1/16" diameter, ten spline input shaft that has a stick out of 6-1/2" from the front face of the transmission. The pilot tip of the transmission measures .668". The front bearing retainer flange measures 4.850" and the bearing retainer tube is 1.432" in diameter. The front bolt pattern is the symmetrical Ford "butterfly" pattern; 8-1/2" wide by 6-5/16" tall. The input shaft length is 6-1/2". Checking these dimensions will verify that the transmission is a 1966 or newer model, precluding it from being the T98.

The T-18 transmission can also be identified by its casting numbers, commonly "13-01", cast into the driver's side of the case. From 1966 until 1978, many T18s used a T98 shifter assembly. 1979 and newer T18s used a three fork shift cover assembly that shifts reverse gear directly. Because of this, reverse location is on the opposite side of neutral than the earlier version (‘66 to ‘78). Additionally, the T18 has three bronze synchro rings. You will also notice the power-take-off port (PTO) at the right side of the case.

Since T-18s were used in so many different trucks, it can be a bit daunting to go out and find one. The following articles cover some things to look for to find the T-18 you need.
Jeep T-18 : The T-18 was used in '72-'79 CJs and full size Jeeps until 1981.
Ford T-18 : Ford used the T-18 in trucks from the mid 60s until the mid 80s.
International T-18 : International used the T-18 in Scouts and IH light line trucks from the mid 60s until 1974



CraneCams XR700

My VIN info